Note:
Natalie Della-Verde is internationally renowned in the PMU industry for her experitse and contributions towards better practices for clients with melanin-rich skin. Here's the latest & greatest info on all things melanin in PMU...

The slogan for Beauty INKlusivity is to be exceptional... not the exception. In the world of PMU, real diversity isn’t just a box to tick—it’s the core of who we are. Inclusive beauty for Black and brown skin matters, and it’s here to stay. From the pigments we choose to our techniques, we take every step to celebrate and serve melanin-rich skin.

Let's explore how we can make sure no one feels overlooked or “less than” in a space that should empower diverse beauty.

Making the Most of PMU for ALL Skin Tones

No matter the skin tone, your beauty deserves to be celebrated and enhanced however you see fit. Whether it be standard cosmetics or PMU for fair to deep skin tones, finding the perfect procedure to get that “wow” moment is deeply empowering.

Unfortunately, the PMU industry can be fraught with challenges for folks with melanin-rich skin. Misinformation and poor results from miseducated technicians can make the entire process feel discouraging.

Even seeing horror stories and photos online can be scary. Keloid scarring, insensitive practitioners, and other PMU-related irritations may make you feel like you shouldn’t even take the chance. Luckily, Perma Blend makes pigments to suit EVERY skin tone.

The team travels the world in the PMU convention circuit with one main goal: educating artists on how to provide exceptional service and get exceptional results with every client, regardless of skin tone.

Here are some key things to keep in mind when working with melanin-rich skin tones:

1. How to Choose the Right Brow Pigments

In the PMU industry, artists often use the Fitzpatrick Scale. This is an outdated system that attempts to classify human skin tones based on their response to sun exposure in categories one through six. These classifications make it easier to select a pigment for a PMU procedure on melanin-rich skin… but they don’t tell the complete story. Even though Black and brown skin tones often fall into categories five and six, there are far more significant factors that determine the perfect pigment.

Two types of melanin make up skin pigmentation:
- Pheomelanin: (yellow and red) is found in lips, areolas, and other pinkish parts, which are more present in lighter skin tones.
- Eumelanin: (black and brown), abundant in black and brown skin, also makes up coloring in hair.

Eumelanin-rich skin tones can have countless undertones, ranging from warm to cool. Finding a client’s skin category between two arbitrary markers simply isn’t effective enough for modern PMU.

When choosing pigments for cosmetically tattooed brows, PMU artists should carefully assess the individual's undertones to select pigments that complement and enhance the natural color of their brows. For example, if your client has cool undertones, select pigments with warmer colors like red or orange. If your client has warm undertones, select pigments that are less red and cooler for harmonious results.

Founder and CEO of the Brow and Lash Studio Amina Sadiq is an absolute expert on pigment selection. She has you covered no matter your clients’ skin tone. In fact, her new set, the LUXE Chocolate Collection, is specifically designed to create the perfect match for melanin-rich skin. With the impressive success of the set, LUXE Chocolate Collection singles were launched in 2025.

2. Thick vs... Ash?

You should never be penalized for having thick skin. Adjusting for the thickness and strength of the dermis (the inner layer of the skin), particularly in melanin-rich skin, is crucial for PMU artists. Melanin-rich skin tends to have a thicker and firmer dermal layer and can potentially lead to “ashy” and less defined results if pigments are implanted too deeply. Understanding the variations in skin thickness in different areas, such as the tail versus the bulb of the brow, is vital.

For individuals with oilier skin, adjusting machine speed, hand speed, and needle choice becomes essential to ensure optimal pigment retention. As always, excellent equipment and technique are essential for good results. Learn from the best, seek as much education as possible, opt for quality equipment, and practice, practice, practice!

3. Ask The Right Questions

One of the most important parts of the PMU process is the consultation, no matter the race, ethnicity, or skin tone. A crucial question to cover is the potential impact of skin care products that inhibit melanin and can affect healing and results.

Advise your clients that these cosmetics, commonly used to address hyperpigmentation or even out skin tone, can influence their healed results.

Ask the questions and make your client feel comfortable to be transparent. Then tailor the procedure to fit the client’s needs.

BE EXCEPTIONAL. NOT THE EXCEPTION.

Beauty INKlusivity is an initiative to empower artists of all skill levels in the professional PMU beauty industry through scholarship, product development, and education. We're in the business of transforming the status quo by developing pigments that represent us all—and creating a better world beyond our imagination.

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