Brow mapping. That tried and true skill for finding the ideal, symmetrical shape to suit a client’s face. It’s one of the first things we learn for eyebrow PMU and microblading. Taking multiple measurements of a client’s eyes and forehead helps determine where the brows should begin, where the arch belongs, and where the brow should finish. But what are some things beyond the basic technique that artists should consider when approaching this supplemental skill?
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Don't Rush It
“I normally recommend 45 to 90 minutes for getting it right,” Perma Blend Pro Team member and respected PMU educator, Nicole Mins explains. “You should never rush perfection and you don’t know what you’ll run into until you start. Your artwork won’t reach its full potential if you don’t map properly.”
“I consider the design part of the process to be the most important,” says Perma Blend Select Team Artist and owner of the Cosmetic Tattoo Studio in Australia, Bodi Myers. “At the beginning of each appointment, you should always have a full consultation to discuss questions, shapes, colors, process, and aftercare to get a great idea of what the client is after with their brows. Artists should spend a long time designing a brow that is perfectly suited to each individual face.”“It’s the perfect opportunity to demonstrate your expertise, which gains trust,” says Clara Medina, Perma Blend Pro Team Artist and educator at Modern Beauty Studio Academy in Watchung, New Jersey.
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Watch For Common Mistakes
In the mapping stage, mistakes are common. “Allowing clients to keep their eyes open is a common mistake,” Mins explains.
Medina adds, “When the eyes are closed, the muscles are relaxed. The designs will look very different.”
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Trust Your Expertise
“Sometimes newer artists don’t take control as the expert, letting their friends or clients influence them to do things they know aren’t correct,” continues Mins. “I think it’s important for us to know what the client believes looks best on their face so asking for a favorite photo with makeup normally helps. Have your client look at your portfolio or social media so that way we can determine if they are on the right track. Additionally, this ensures that they are not looking for something that is impossible, and unrealistic according to their natural brow shape.”
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Use Tools For Added Precision
The tools an artist uses to map a client’s brows vary but most tend to agree on a few. “Sometimes I freehand, but I love me some mapping string for the top of the brow!” Shay Danielle, Perma Blend Select Artist and owner of Shay Danielle Studio.
“I use string, mapping tools, brushes, concealer, and more from my Savvy Creations line,” says Mins.
Then what? “Start with a pixelated outline (the more defined the outline, the more coverage to match),” says Medina. “Fill in the sparse areas first and then even out the entire brow. Do a final check before completing the brows with an inverted color pic (this will pick up any undersaturated areas of your work)."
“As artists, one of our superpowers should be serving the client a unique experience,” continues Medina. “The best way is with customized brow shaping (no one shape fits all because they don’t fit all). A brow shaping is a fully “customized experience” that is different for every client that walks through your doors. When you serve a unique experience to a client, that client will send you their tribe of friends and family. Never forget that it’s all about the unique experience for the client. Serve them just that!"
For more info and to shop brow products, visit https://permablend.com/collections/eyebrow.
For Brow Mapping Courses, visit:
- Shay Danielle: Brow Mapping
- Nicole Mins: Brow Mapping Simplified
- Clara Medina: AAM PMU Fundamentals