How to Choose the Right SMP Pigments
Choosing the right scalp micropigmentation (SMP) pigment involves more than finding a shade that matches your client's hair color. You'll also need to consider their skin tone, desired results, and how the pigment is likely to look once healed.
In this guide, we'll walk through the differences between artist-favorite SMP sets like Reclaim and Restore, and our dedicated scalp pigments, including how to select and customize shades for natural-looking results.
Consider Your Client's Hairstyle and Desired Results
Before choosing an SMP pigment, consider how your client wears their hair and the look they want to achieve. SMP can create the appearance of a closely shaved head or add the illusion of density to thinning areas, and each approach requires different considerations.
- For a shaved look, choose a pigment that complements your client's natural hair color and stubble. Pay particular attention to areas where the pigment will blend with existing hair, and consider how closely your client plans to keep their head shaved.
- For density work, the goal is to reduce the contrast between visible scalp and existing hair, creating the appearance of fuller coverage. Consider your client's hair color, density, and styling habits when selecting a pigment.
During the consultation, ask about your client's usual haircut, styling preferences, and hair coloring habits. These details can help you choose a pigment that complements their current look and long-term goals.
For more on these two SMP applications, check out our article, PMU Is for Guys TooOpens a new windowOpens a new window. Although the article focuses on men, both techniques can benefit clients of any gender.
Assess Hair Color, Scalp Tone, and Contrast Together
“Dark brown hair” is a starting observation, not a complete pigment prescription. Examine the hair and scalp under consistent, neutral lighting, focusing on four details:
- Natural hair color: Look at the remaining stubble or roots near the treatment area. If the hair is dyed, discuss the natural color and the shade the client intends to maintain.
- Scalp tone: Assess the actual treatment area rather than relying on the client’s facial complexion or a skin-tone category.
- Undertone: Note visible warm, cool, or neutral qualities. Don’t use temporary flushing or irritation as the basis for a lasting color decision.
- Contrast: Consider how strongly the existing hair stands out against the scalp and how the treated area should blend into it.
With mixed gray and dark hair, assess the overall appearance rather than matching only the darkest strands. Likewise, a darker complexion doesn’t automatically call for the darkest pigment.
Keep color depth and undertone separate in your notes. One describes how light or dark the color appears. The other describes its tonal direction. A pigment can be suitable in one respect and unsuitable in the other.
Identify scarred areas separately, too. Scar tissue can respond differently from surrounding scalp and needs its own assessment.
Create a Freshly Shaved Look with Reclaim
Want to recreate the look of natural hair follicles on a closely shaved scalp? The LUXE Reclaim Set by Sculpted – Stevey GOpens a new windowOpens a new window is designed for just that. The set includes Reclaim #0 through #4, plus Adjust – SMP, giving you options to customize your approach.
But don't let the numbers fool you! Reclaim shades aren't arranged on a simple light-to-dark scale. Each has its own formulation, with a carbon black base and additional pigment components listed on the individual product pages:
| Reclaim shade | Additional pigment components listed |
|---|---|
| #0 | Black 11 |
| #1 | Violet 55 and Black 11 |
| #2 | Green 36 and Black 11 |
| #3 | Yellow 138, Red 254, and Black 11 |
| #4 | Yellow 138, Yellow 42, Red 254, and Black 11 |
Keep in mind that these are just the listed color components, not complete formulas or a guide to mixing shades.
Take Reclaim #1 and #2, for example. One contains a violet component, while the other contains green. That difference shows why choosing the right shade involves more than finding the right level of darkness. Of course, ingredients alone can't tell you exactly how a pigment will heal on your client's scalp.
Want to learn more about what goes into these shades? Check out the story behind Stevey G's Reclaim SetOpens a new windowOpens a new window for more on the formulations and undertones. Pair that knowledge with current SMP-specific product guidance to make informed shade selections.
Add the Appearance of Fuller Hair with Restore
Looking to create the illusion of thicker, fuller hair? The LUXE Restore Set by Sculpted – Stevey GOpens a new windowOpens a new window is designed for density work, helping you reduce the contrast between existing hair and visible scalp. The set includes Restore #5 through #9, plus Adjust – SMP, with a range of shades for customization.
Here's a closer look at the shades:
- Restore #5: Light brown with a warm tone.
- Restore #6: Chocolate brown with slight warmth.
- Restore #7: Blackish brown with slight warmth.
- Restore #8: Golden yellow with slight warmth.
- Restore #9: Grayish brown with slight warmth.
With these options, you can tailor your approach to your client's hair color and desired results. Just remember that shade selection isn't always straightforward. For example, Restore #9 isn't automatically the right choice for every client with gray hair.
And don't forget that density is about more than pigment color. If your client wants fuller-looking coverage, the answer isn't necessarily a darker shade. The placement and distribution of impressions matter, too. Aim for a result that blends naturally with existing hair rather than drawing attention to the treated area.
Consider Our Dedicated Scalp Pigments
Our Scalp PigmentsOpens a new windowOpens a new window give you even more options for customizing your SMP work. The range includes Micro Dark, Micro Dark Brown, Micro Medium, Micro Grey, and Micro Light, with availability varying by shade.
Use these pigments individually or blend them to create a custom shade that complements your client's hair and scalp. It's a flexible option for artists who prefer a more personalized approach to color selection.
Just remember that shade names don't tell the whole story! Always review the product's instructions and recommendations rather than assuming a shade will suit a particular client or perform like a similarly named pigment from another collection.
Keep Mixing and Dilution Product-Specific
pigment concentration. It doesn’t provide a universal fix for an unsuitable undertone, and a more diluted mix at a later session won’t remove pigment already implanted.
Record the exact pigments, proportions, and solution used. Follow the bottle’s shaking and expiration instructions. The reviewed product pages specify shaking for at least one minute and a 12-month period after opening, without overriding an earlier printed expiration date.
When customizing your SMP pigments, always follow the instructions for the specific system you're using. Mixing ratios and dilution guidelines can vary between ranges, so don't assume the same approach works for every formula.
- For Reclaim and Restore, use Adjust – SMP to dilute pigments from either set. The individual shades are designed to work within their respective systems rather than as standalone colors.
- For Scalp Pigments, follow the range's specific blending instructions. Perma Blend recommends its thinning or shading solutions and advises against using water or other thinning agents.
Remember that dilution and color correction aren't the same thing! Dilution reduces pigment concentration, but it won't necessarily correct an unsuitable undertone. It also won't remove pigment that's already been implanted during a previous session.
For consistent results, document the exact pigments, mixing ratios, and solutions you use. Be sure to follow the product's shaking and expiration guidelines, too. The reviewed product pages recommend shaking for at least one minute and using pigments within 12 months of opening, provided the printed expiration date hasn't passed.
Clarify the pigment system guidanceTighten the opening instructions
Assess Healed Work Before Making Adjustments
Fresh SMP results won't look exactly the same once healed. Redness, swelling, and excess surface pigment can affect the initial appearance, while some pigment is naturally lost during the healing process. Pigment implanted too deeply can also spread beneath the skin, creating a blurred appearance.
Give your client's scalp enough time to heal before evaluating the results or planning additional treatment. Healing varies from person to person, so follow your professional protocol rather than expecting every client to reach their final healed appearance on the same timeline.
At your follow-up appointment, pay attention to four key factors:
- Color: Does the healed pigment complement the client's natural hair color?
- Darkness: Does the treated area appear darker or more noticeable than intended?
- Definition: Do the individual impressions look crisp and distinct, or have they blurred?
- Distribution: Does the coverage blend naturally into the surrounding hair?
Remember that not every concern calls for a darker pigment or another treatment. If the healed results appear too cool or blurred, assess the underlying issue before making adjustments.
Take photos under consistent lighting and from similar angles and distances to compare fresh and healed results. Review these alongside your treatment notes to help guide your next steps. And be sure to set realistic expectations from the beginning: SMP pigments can change in appearance as they heal, but the degree of fading varies by client.
Build a Palette That Fits Your SMP Work
Explore our SMP pigments, including Reclaim and RestoreOpens a new windowOpens a new window, to find options suited to your services. Compare each system’s intended use and education before adding it to your kit. A purposeful SMP palette gives you choices you understand, with a clear reason for the colors you select for each unique client.