Kay Holtz epitomizes what it means to learn from your mistakes. Graduating from the University of Minnesota in 2007, Kay spent seven years as an RD engineer for Emerson Corporation before being beckoned to the beauty industry. In fact, growing up, her family owned plenty of salons and spas, which helped shape some of her experience in the business. However, with the added skill of microblading and more, Kay swiftly became one of the premiere PMU experts in Minnesota and in 2017, she founded Minnesota Microblading, Lash & Medspa Academy.

But like any new artists, even she made a few mistakes – some of the healed results for her clients were less than ideal. And she saw plenty of other mistakes walk through her door. So, in the boss of all moves, Kay decided to do something about it. And now, she’s literally the expert PMU laser removal.

So, what’s the best way to remove permanent makeup? And when is it best to correct previous work or remove it all together? We spoke with Kay to give you the scoop!

First Things First:

Why Would a Client Want a PMU Tattoo Removal?

There are many reasons why someone might choose to remove a brow tattoo, such as:

• A botched first procedure
• Microblading strokes or other forms of migration that have blurred or spread over time
• Unwanted color changes (red, grey)
• Simply not liking the shape anymore

Removal vs Correction

Removal is different from correction. Correction typically refers to neutralizing unwanted pigment colors, while removal completely takes out the pigment. If you are satisfied with the shape, structure and are educated on how to transform eyebrows to a natural tone due to advanced education in color theory, correction may be the best and most hassle-free approach.

1. Laser Removal: The Powerhouse

This is the go-to method for complete removal of unwanted ink. Lasers break down pigment particles, allowing your body to eliminate the unwanted ink. According to Kay Holtz, there are a couple technologies out there:

• Pico - a device that uses ultra-short pulses of light to treat tattoos, scars, and other skin imperfections
• Q-Switch - a technique for lasers to produce powerful, short bursts of light

Pico lasers are the latest and greatest, offering faster results. However, the Pico lasers are much more expensive to maintain comparing to the traditional Q-switch systems.

“Laser is fast, very fast,” Kay says. “For [Pico] laser, the 1064 wavelength can remove black, brown, or anything dark while the 532 and 694 wavelengths can remove red and blue/green. [Depending on the tattoo] , it’s just one zap away or we can lighten significantly within 3 sessions.”

Pros: Most effective removal method, good for a variety of colors and perfect for large areas of removal.

Cons: Some colors such as white and yellow cannot be removed effectively. Dangerous areas such as eyeliners should not be treated with Laser without proper training and doctor/medical Director supervision.

This method uses a sterile saltwater solution and a tattoo machine to lift pigment particles out of the skin. It's considered the gentlest option, making it ideal for the delicate eye area. While effective, it may require multiple sessions, especially for heavily pigmented tattoos. According to Kay, it's not as effective as laser. However, saline is very efficient for smaller areas or eyeliners or for the areas that laser cannot be used.”

Pros: Gentler on skin, similar downtime with laser and chemical removal

Cons: Only for smaller areas. May require multiple sessions, less effective than laser

This method uses a chemical solution to remove the top layer of skin, including the pigment. While some claim success, it's generally discouraged due to the high risk of scarring. There are safer and more reliable options out there!

"[If] very close to the eyeball, I recommend not doing chemical removal,” Kay says. “Chemical removal [can be] amazing for brows, lips or for other white and yellow colors that laser can’t remove effectively.”

Pros: More immediate results for pigment removal, good for heavy saturated tattoos

Cons: High risk for skin irritation or damage, longer down time

Risks and Aftercare

No removal method is risk-free. All three options can cause skin damage if not performed by a trained and qualified professional. Remember, heavily pigmented or saturated tattoos will likely require multiple sessions, and there will be healing downtime. Titanium dioxide, a common pigment, can be particularly stubborn and may turn black before vanishing completely.

The Path to Perfect Brows After Removal

Once your tattoo is removed (and your skin is fully healed!), you or your client can absolutely get permanent makeup again. But choose wisely! If you’re a technician or artist, learn from any negative experience and find the proper tools for education. If you’re a potential client, ensure the artist is experienced and uses proper techniques to avoid future removal mishaps.

“It is not hard, it is not easy - everything will take effort,” Kay says. “My advice is to seek out a trainer who teaches the fundamentals and continue to utilize your training. Believe that one day you will feel super comfortable with your skills, and you will love it a lot more and more.”

So, don't live with PMU regret! By consulting a qualified professional and choosing the right removal method, you can achieve the perfect brows in no time.

Greatness has a beginning. Read how the worlds #1 permanent makeup provider got its roots in this in-depth Q&A with Brand Director Anne Marie Rubino and Killer Beauty!

https://www.killerbeauty.co.uk/blog/interview-with-pb-brand-director-anne-marie-rubinoOpens a new window

BE EXCEPTIONAL. NOT THE EXCEPTION.

Beauty INKlusivity is an initiative to empower artists of all skill levels in the professional PMU beauty industry through scholarship, product development and education. We're in the business of eradicating the status quo by developing products that represent us all - and creating a better world beyond our imagination.

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