Like so many PMU artists, Kay Holtz didn’t have a straight path into the beauty industry. While her relatives ran spas and salons, Kay graduated from the University of Minnesota in 2007 and spent seven years as an RD engineer for Emerson Corporation. Eventually, she followed her family into beauty, swiftly becoming one of the premiere PMU experts in Minnesota.

In 2017, she founded Minnesota Microblading, Lash & Medspa Academy. At the beginning of her PMU career, some of her clients’ healed results were less than ideal, but Kay Holtz epitomizes what it means to learn from mistakes. With practice, she literally became the expert in PMU laser removal. So, when our team at Perma Blend wanted to answer your questions about correction and removal, we absolutely had to speak with Kay. She’s here to give you the scoop! 

Why Would a Client Want a PMU Tattoo Removal?

There are many reasons why someone might choose to remove a brow tattoo, such as:

• A botched first procedure
• Microblading strokes or other forms of migration that have blurred or spread over time
• Unwanted color changes (red, grey)
• Simply not liking the shape anymore

Removal vs Correction: Which Is the Best Approach?

While both remedy PMU mishaps, removal and correction are far from the same. Correction typically refers to neutralizing unwanted pigment colors, while removal completely takes out the pigment. If you are satisfied with the shape, structure, and are educated on how to transform eyebrows to a natural tone due to advanced education in color theory, correction may be the best and most hassle-free approach. 

Different Types of PMU Removal

Kay Holtz speaks on the three ways to remove permanent makeup: laser removal, saline removal, and acid removal.

1. Laser Removal: The Powerhouse

Laser removal is the go-to method for complete PMU removal. Lasers break down pigment particles, allowing your body to eliminate the unwanted ink.

Pros of Laser Removal 

·    Most effective removal method
·    Good for a variety of colors
·    Perfect for large areas of removal

Cons of Laser Removal 

·    Some colors such as white and yellow cannot be removed effectively
·    Dangerous areas such as eyeliners should not be treated with laser without proper training and doctor/medical director supervision 

According to Kay Holtz, there are a couple tecnologies for laser removal out there:
• Pico - a device that uses ultra-short pulses of light to treat tattoos, scars, and other skin imperfections
• Q-Switch - a technique for lasers to produce powerful, short bursts of light

Pico lasers are the latest and greatest, offering faster results. However, the Pico lasers are much more expensive to maintain compared to the traditional Q-switch systems.

“Laser is fast, very fast,” Kay says. “For [Pico] laser, the 1064 wavelength can remove black, brown, or anything dark, while the 532 and 694 wavelengths can remove red and blue/green. [Depending on the tattoo], it’s just one zap away or we can lighten significantly within three sessions.” 

The saline removal method uses a sterile saltwater solution and a tattoo machine to lift pigment particles out of the skin. It's considered the gentlest option, making it ideal for smaller, more delicate areas. Kay gives the example of using saline removal for eyeliner. However, this may require multiple sessions, especially for heavily pigmented tattoos.

Pros of Saline Removal 

·    Gentler on skin 
·    Similar downtime with laser
·    Chemical removal 
·    Perfect for smaller, more delietac areas of removal

Cons of Saline Removal 

·    Only for smaller areas 
·    May require multiple sessions
·    Less efective than laserf 

This method uses a chemical solution to remove the top layer of skin, including the pigment. While some claim success, it's generally discouraged due to the high risk of scarring. There are safer and more reliable options out there! 



"[If] very close to the eyeball, I recommend not doing chemical removal,” Kay says. “Chemical removal [can be] amazing for brows, lips or for other white and yellow colors that laser can’t remove effectively.”



Pros of Acid Removal 

·    More immediate results for pigment removal
·    Good for heavily saturated tattoos 

Cons of Acid Removal 

·    High risk for skin irritaton or damage
·    Longer down time 

Risks and Aftercare

While there are countless benefits to the removal method, it’s still not without risk. All three options can cause skin damage if not performed by a trained and qualified professional.

Remember: Heavily pigmented or saturated tattoos will likely require multiple sessions, and there will be healing downtime. Titanium dioxide, a common pigment, can be particularly stubborn and may turn black before vanishing completely. 

The Path to Perfect Brows After Removal

Once your tattoo is removed and your skin is fully healed (woo-hoo!), your client can absolutely get permanent makeup again.

But continue to choose wisely. If you’re a technician or artist, learn from any negative experience and find the proper tools for education. If you’re a potential client, ensure the artist is experienced and uses proper techniques to avoid future removal mishaps. 



“It is not hard, it is not easy—everything will take effort,” Kay says. “My advice is to seek out a trainer who teaches the fundamentals and continue to utilize your training. Believe that one day you will feel super comfortable with your skills, and you will love it a lot more and more.” 



You heard it from Kay: don't live with PMU regret! By consulting a qualified professional and choosing the right removal method, you can achieve the perfect brows in no time.



Perma Blend Resources

Greatness has a beginning. Check out our Science Behind the Ink courseOpens a new window, which explains the nature of pigments and can help artists and clients alike understand more about the behavior of colors as they fade.

Also available is our Expert RoundtableOpens a new window course, so you can learn from the mistakes and successes of the PMU world’s finest. 


BE EXCEPTIONAL. NOT THE EXCEPTION.

Beauty INKlusivity is an initiative to empower artists of all skill levels in the professional PMU beauty industry through scholarship, product development and education. We're in the business of eradicating the status quo by developing products that represent us all - and creating a better world beyond our imagination.

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